USB 3 shouldn’t be a problem but did you try rebooting the Dynomite box after you have Dynomax started? Once in a while I have to do that when I’m starting up the dyno for the test session. After that it is solid and I’m using about a 3m USB cable.
I fixed it by picking up the center of the crank and then drilling the hole deeper by 5/8 of an inch. After some measuring this was also needed to make the engine work with the customers transmission and bell housing.
I don’t know. I wonder if there are valves that are made to work in slightly different ranges. I built my own cooling tower and the valve is one from Johnson Controls if I remember right. It seems like it was down around 160 when I first tested it and I just kept adjusting it up till I was able to get an output temperature from the engine of about 185 according to the sensor which is screwed in through the nipple where the top hose enters the tower.
After a pull it might creep a bit higher and then drop somewhat lower after the valve opens to let cool water in but overall its pretty stable. I use a 12 volt electric water pump that runs all of the time and pulls water out about 5 inches up from the bottom of the tower. Maybe that allows the bottom of the cooling where the valve is located to “see” water that’s a little colder than 185..
In Dynomax “Calibrate Dynomite Channels” inside of the tab for each EGT sensor channel there is a button where it says, “ALL EGT’s in mVolt” and another with 5 volt.
Then what I would need is a sensor setup which would produce a 0-5 volt signal for each sensor is that correct?
The cool thing about a closed system is that you could run the engine at higher temperatures. The cool thing about the open system is its simplicity. I have an open setup and I run the engines at 185.
In the pressurized setup the cooling system of the engine can run under pressure that’s higher than atmospheric and the heat is taken away using a heat exchanger. In the open type of system the cooling system runs at atmospheric pressure and heat is removed using a thermostatically controlled water valve. When the temperature in the system reaches the set temperature the valve lets in cool water. The cooling tower has a stand pipe inside and the excess water then overtops it and runs out to the drain.
@FC-Pilot 5256 wrote:
Dave, I imagine hanging the “arm” off to only one side will induce some load unless it also extends to the other side equally, is that correct? I guess if you know just how much it will add that can be accounted for. I have thought of doing similar but was afraid of goofing something up in my calculations. I like the idea of using heads as I have some old Merlin heads that weight as much as a tank. Now I just need to make sure I get an accurate weight on them. Thanks for the idea.
Just “zero” the reading before you hang the weight and don’t forget to zero out for your chain or include it in your weight. I made sure that my arm lines up exactly with the centerline of the absorber and hangs 2ft out to one side. That could be more or less it wouldn’t really matter. Merlin heads would work good for a weight.
I have one that I made to fit my toroidal absorber. I made it out of angle iron and it bolts to the back using several bolts. I have a place where I hang the weight that is exactly 2ft from center. I use it when I have an engine mounted on the dyno stand so holding it is no problem. I have a few cylinder heads that I’ve weighed that I “hang”. Be sure to turn off correction when this is done. I’ve never seen it change any to speak of on my torque arm.
Do you think they’re smelling the exhaust that’s already outside of the building? Or do you think they are smelling other things like smoke from headers, crankcase breathers etc? That might be tough to figure out.
What’s weird is when I look at the channel with a running engine the “final reading” box seems to show the correct value or one that’s very close to what my Autometer gauge reads. It is only on the computer console view where it reads about 1/2 of the correct amount of vacuum.
I have the sensor from Land and Sea. It would be cool if I could get it to read in in/Hg when it is below zero(vacuum) and then in PSI when it is above zero(boost) but right now I have to get it to read correctly first while it works it seems to be way off from my mechanical vacuum gauge. How do I adjust that? Have the Pro version.
I’ve always thought that having that would be awesome but how difficult is it to keep all of the stuff working?
Today I used the dyno with the plug in place for the first time. In order to get adequate loading I had to cut back my outlet restrictor size from the .540 which I had been using to a .437 then it seemed to work fine, load the engine well and the absorber definitely runs cooler than before.
I just chatted with Ryan and it seems like everything should be ok on my absorber. I’ve had it for just about six years and that means several thousand pulls worth of use too. He recommending getting a new bearing kit which I think I will do after this test session even though they feel fine. I always grease them every time I do a test session.
As I told him I think they should tell everybody how EASY it is to remove the cover from the absorber and take a look at things, check out the housing, rotor bearings etc. It took me all of about five minutes to take it apart, no big deal and easier than the older straight vane style of absorber that I had long ago.
I tapped the extra outlet drain hole to 3/8 pipe and put in a plug. It will be interesting to see what that does to the temperature of the absorber with the same water supply.
Today I pulled the cover off of my absorber(single rotor) to check it out and install the pipe plug. Inside I found some damage to a few of the fins on the rotor and on the cover. It almost looks like something got inside one time or another but for the life of me I can’t see how that could have happened. I never did find that pin which held the flapper valve and I always assumed that it went out the discharge hose, maybe not. How much do some notches in the cover hurt? They are about 1/8 inch deep and 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide on the worst ones. Around the water exit holes it looks fine.
There is some corrosion damage from cavitation. It appears mostly near the outside edge of the cover and near the inside of the rotor. The bearings feel perfect but I think I can see a few places were it looks like the rotor had touched the cover one time or another. Can it do that from too much heat?
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